Saturday, 31 March 2012

Its been so long!

It really has. I had a bit of a slump whilst trying to do my Truffle dress as it needs so many alterations (guess you cant slim into a "commercial" body shape) but I have now moved that to my to do pile for the time being.

So I decided seen as though the summer seems to be on the way here and I desperately short of tops I will make some starting with the highly acclaimed Sorbetto Top by Colette which can be downloaded here.

Now this has been out for nearly a year and there are some really wonderful versions and great variations on the Colette flickr group. I thought it would be a dream to sew and a great addition to my wardrobe.

Learning from the truffle dress I thought I would make up a quick muslin just to be sure of the sizing.

:( :( :(:( :( :(:( :( :(:( :( :(:( :( :(:( :( :(:( :( :(:( :( :(:( :( :(:( :( :(:( :( :(:( :( :(:( :( :(:( :( :(:( :( :(

Loose neck, roomy shoulders and very gaping armholes was the results of the first muslin, so I done some research, found this and thought aha job done.

 This is after the gaping armhole fix and I moved the dart as it was too high (and is now too low). It still gapes and I am at a loss.

My bust measure 41 at the widest so as per the pattern sizing I cut a 14. I have read somewhere to cut the upper bust/chest measurement which is 39 (and typically its halfway between a 10 and 12). So I am thinking I may do that and try a split and spread FBA (if I can understand how to do it).
Ladies any help or tips would be greatly appreciated on this one. I am going to recut and have another go at a smaller size. Fingers crossed :)

Tuesday, 13 March 2012

Truffle Muslin pt I

So I have finally made some headway on the next project in the Sew Colette challenge which is the lovely Truffle Dress.

I have traced the pattern doing the same as I did for the Pastille and cut a 14 top tapering to an 18 skirt (hope I have done the grading right).

I am really hoping that I wont have to do a short torso adjustment and a sway back adjustment but at least I know what I am doing this time (she says *& does a big big eye roll).

All cut out and marked up,double checked all the markings before I put the pattern away this time (these patterns can be a sod to fold up again)!!!!!

I have cut this muslin from an old bed sheet (god only knows why I had a bed sheet that colour)!!!!

So tomorrow I am ready to sew it all together and then work out what alterations I need to make for a great fit. Hope everyone is getting on OK and cant wait to see everyones finished garments :) x

Monday, 12 March 2012

A Quick Little Dress??

I thought I would take a day out from the Sew Colette to knock up a quick dress that I had already made. I knew the stretch jersey knit (purchased for £3.95p/m from Ashley Brook Fabrics in Romford) would not be suitable for any of the Colette projects so I thought I would make the Simplicity 2406 seen as though I already had the pattern traced and cut.

It needs another wash or two for the interfacing to de-bulk (my own fault as I think I used heavyweight instead of my lightweight one I used last time.

Not really the best figure hugging dress for me but comfy and wearable for school runs and house days especially with the pockets sewn into the seams. :)

Again excuse the picture I really do not photograph well.

I used view C on the pattern but wore this today with my own belt rather than the intended sash. I will admit I had some trouble with the sleeves, even though I used the same pattern as size as last time they just would not go right so I unpicked them and done them again :o)

I finished the facing with bias tape for a smart finish and was pleased with my gathering this time round.

I used bias tape again to fish the arms as was not keen on using elastic again. This gave the sleeves a really nice finish.

I run out of bias tape so just machines a basic hem which hangs quite nicely.

Saturday, 10 March 2012

In the flesh!

Ok so I really dont photograph well but here is me wearing my Pastille dress :)

It is really frustrating as what I see and what the camera can see are obviously two different things!

As you can see below it is still slight roomy in the upper back but not as much as before. I will definitely be wearing this once it warms up a bit.

By the way in the rear shot the dress is not wonky I obviously don't have the ability to stand straight!!!

Friday, 9 March 2012

Sew Colette: Pastille Finished Finally.

Ok So I have now finally finished my Pastille Dress and it is well and truly wearable (just need to wait for some warmer weather)

I am off to do the school run now but I will post a pic to twitter and Flicker later of me wearing the dress once I set my camera up and find where I put my tripod.

So here is the final dress. Due to the disasters I had I have had to make a few alterations.
1. I added an extra pleat to the bottom of the skirt for personal preference.
2. I had to cover the neckline with a peter pan collar and I used Suzannah's tutorial to do this.
3. I removed the cap sleeves and converted them to basic short sleeves.

Now onwards to the truffle dress :) x

Thursday, 8 March 2012

Finished Pastille (Sort of anyway)

Well I have finished the Colette Pastille Dress and although it's OK I am quite disappointed with it. Maybe I am jumping ahead of myself expecting my projects to come out perfect but for the time it took they should do!

From the front it looks passably fine (the second picture in was not cropped in proportion it does not look that frumpy!) however, I did adjust both the front and back for a short waist but it appears the front is shorter than the back :/ The back has a bit of surplus material in the width which confused me as the muslin was a nice fit.

I adjusted the neckline to make it more low cut and rounded but have no idea what went wrong as it looked so nice when it was just pressed and prior to adding the interfacing. I think its safe to say me and interfacing just do not get on!

To hide the dodgy neckline I have decided to add a peter pan collar after seeing Adventures In Dressmaking's tutorial here. I will be making this tonight hopefully!

As for the back I am finding the neck comes up to high at the back, the sleeves really do not suit me and make me look all out of proportion and I have excess fabric which I am not too sure what to do with. I am dreading taking out the zip as I sewed it on the smallest stitch and I just know the fabric will rip :(

The bodice (the bit I was actually concerned about) came out fine! all seams and darts lined up lovely. Excuse the light coloured marks, my iron came off the pressing cloth so the shine is reflecting the light!

The pleats worked out fine, I added in an extra one to bring them all the way down as I just prefer them this way.

I really want to start on the Truffle dress and catch up with the sew along but I also want to make this one perfect so I can wear it out and about. So the plan for tonight after I have designed a poster for my PTA group is to unpick the zip and remove excess fabric and the back of the neck, remove the cap sleeves and refit the shoulders and add a peter pan collar! Wonder how much I will actually get done? :(

Monday, 5 March 2012

Louise picks her 1st lot of material

So I took my little one Louise (age 4) to the fabric shop with me. Ashley Brooks in Romford Marketplace (or now known as the Romford Shopping Mall) are really good with her and don't mind her sitting down behind their counter out the way while I browse and procrastinate over fabrics!

I asked her to pick some fabric she liked for her summer wardrobe and here we have her choices all priced at £2.40p/m and perfect for the hopefully hot summer.

I was very happy with her choices however I was thinking dresses and she has asked for skirts which would be easier but then I will have to match them with tops!!!! 

Friday, 2 March 2012

Colette Pastille Dress: Half way there.

I am so behind with the sew along but I will be catching up real soon!

I have spent the evening finishing off my muslin and I must say I am glad I did as I have had to make a few adjustments.

I have had to take length off the front and back bodice as I obviously have a very short body myself! But I also have very small shoulders so I will have to take some bulk from the shoulders too.

I have also decided lower the neckline on the final garment as high necklines do nothing for me and I have spent too much time procrastinating over pleating the fabric down to the hemline as I feel it will look much better (plus I'm such a shorty I need to loose a fair few inches off the skirt length). My pattern has been adjusted accordingly I am ready to go!!!!

Roll on my little ones bed time so I can get going of the final garment tomorrow. Here is the unaltered muslin and despite my attempt to re-pad Deirdre she is still not the same as me fitting wise.

I hope everyone has a fab weekend. :o) x

Thursday, 1 March 2012

Spoilt with goodies!

Well I am still working on my Pastille muslin but I had to share these goodies I got :)

I think my beginners arsenal of equipment and info is near enough complete.

I know I can sometimes bog myself down with too much information but in an attempt to not be so distracted by the internet I have purchased some good old fashion books.

I seem to do a lot of alterations on patterns and am hoping to be doing some self drafting in the near future so I was told a French Curve/ Curve Ruler/ Dressmakers Curve was an absolute must! I got this one from Minerva via their eBay shop. It has a square ruler incorporated. Slits and spacings for button holes as well as markings for seam allowances. Changing necklines and armholes will be so much easier now!

            This book will probably be like my bible! I have the  
            strangest body shape and find that patterns just
            do not fit first time. I am so glad I got this as there
            is so much information here and so many alterations
            I doubt I will have to spend hours researching on the
            world wide web for a long long time :)

I can imagine there are some people out there cringing at my choice of book however this encompasses everything I could foresee me using for the time being. I am self taught and again this is a bid to not get distracted when I get stuck.

I can honestly say that I never thought dressmaking would be as complicated or expensive as it has been but I am thoroughly enjoying it and now I have no excuse. So I am off to clear my table and get on with finishing my Pastille muslin.